Defining an exposure index along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea coast

authored by: Pushpa Dissanayake, Johanna Amft, Philipp Sibbertsen
Abstract: A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R²: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.
Organisation(s): Institute of Statistics
External Organisation(s): Lower Saxony Water Management, Coastal and Nature Protection Agency (NLWKN)
Kiel University
Type: Article
Journal: Marine geology
Volume: 476
No. of pages: 29
ISSN: 0025-3227
Publication date: 10.2024
Publication status: Published
Peer reviewed: Yes
ASJC Scopus subject areas: Oceanography, Geology, Geochemistry and Petrology
Electronic version(s): https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382 (Access: Closed)

BibTeX

@article{b20c97af85b14d7c8d3a73f35433fbc1,
title = "Defining an exposure index along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea coast",
abstract = "A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R2: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernf{\"o}rde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.",
keywords = "Baysian-Information-Criterion, Delft3D, GARMA-POT, GPD, IID, Nearshore hydrodynamics, Numerical modelling, Representative wind year, Statistical analysis",
author = "Pushpa Dissanayake and Johanna Amft and Philipp Sibbertsen",
note = "Publisher Copyright: {\textcopyright} 2024 Elsevier B.V.",
year = "2024",
month = oct,
doi = "10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382",
language = "English",
volume = "476",
journal = "Marine geology",
issn = "0025-3227",
publisher = "Elsevier",
}